Lonnie and Sue - Traveling North America

2007 - July 1 to July 11 Travels in Newfoundland

 My campground rating system is on a scale of 5/5 with the first number being the levelness of the site and the second being the appearance.  A 3/3 would be an average site.

 I have left the prices in for comparison and to give a general idea of what to expect.  Depending on when you read this, factor in inflation.

You can read it through or select specific locations below.
Travel Log - July 1 to July 11, 2007    [Tab 2007 Newfound'd 1]

07-01-2007      Sun     Day 91          Trip Meter:  23.7

Driving Directions:   Got back on NS 105 and drove to the ferry.  After we departed the ferry we took TC 1 east to the campground.

Days Activities:   Departed campground at 7:30 AM.  When we got to the ferry they had only given me one reservation for the coach and jeep.  After the attendant measured the coach as 40’ we unhooked at the gate because it is cheaper to take the vehicles separately.  If the coach had measured over 40’ then it would have been cheaper to take them connected.  I had already removed the tote tank from the jeep.  Since we only had one reservation they had to make a second reservation for the jeep before we could load.  They seem to think it was my fault I had not made two reservations.  I had told the reservation clerk that we had a motorhome and a jeep.  In fact I told her that at least 4 times.  We got boarded about 8:15 AM and departed at 9:00 AM.   

The ferry is named the MV Caribou.  Newfoundland and Labrador Province is on Newfoundland time.  That is Atlantic Time plus 30 minutes.   

In the lounge there was live entertainment from 11:00 AM to noon and again from 1:15 PM to 2:15 PM.  It was provided by Bugs and Debbie Greene.  She sang and he told jokes and played instruments – the guitar, accordion, mandolin, and electric fiddle.  We watched the early show and it was very entertaining.

A note about Newfoundland and Labrador Province.  It is all one province but two separate land masses.  Newfoundland is the island and Labrador is on the mainland adjacent to Quebec.   

We docked at Newfoundland at 2:45 PM and were offloaded by 3:00.  It was a 5 hour and 45 minute ride.  With the time change we actually got offloaded at 3:30 PM. 

  • Campsite:   J.T. Cheeseman Provincial Park, Port aux Basques, NL - overnight - site # 51 - gassy pad - back in – No services.  Cost $13.00 per night plus $5.00 per day entry fee.  Rating 4/3.  Got setup at 4:00 PM.   

Additional info:  We were backed up to a really nice creek.  Had a table and fire ring. 

Since we expect to be staying in several Provincial parks I purchased an annual pass for $20.00.  We took a drive through Channel Port aux Basques, the village at the ferry dock at Port aux Basques.   

Then we drove out route 470.  Drove around Margareel first then out to Fox Roost.  At Fox Roost I took a picture of a boat in a small cove. 

Then we drove out to the end of route 470 to Rose Blanche.  We by-passed several other villages because we wanted to get to the Rose Blanche Lighthouse while there was still good light for pictures.  It was our intention to stop at the other places on the way back if time permitted.   

Drove through Rose Blanche all the way out to the point with the lighthouse.  Lo and behold the lighthouse was open.  During the season it is open from 9 AM to 9 PM 7 days a week.  We had to walk out to it – I estimated it at ¾ mile round trip with about a 100 foot elevation.   

The Rose Blanche Lighthouse was constructed in 1873 of granite quarried right below where it was constructed.  It was abandoned in 1940.  During its 70 years of operation there were only 6 light keepers.  In 1940 a wooden structure was constructed on another location with an automated light.  In 1960 it was replaced with a metal structure.  In 1996 restoration on the lighthouse was started and finally completed in 1999.  The restored lighthouse was then opened to the public and became a functional lighthouse again, replacing the metal structure.    

In the lighthouse was a picture of the building just before restorations begin.  The only thing standing was the tall round portion.  Engineers believe it was saved because of the spiral granite steps that are embedded in the wall.  There has not been any restoration on the steps.  The granite from the house was lying around the site where it had fallen.  About 70% of the granite used to restore the structure was reclaimed from the site and the remainder was secured from the original quarry.   

I would not mind returning here and spending the day setting on the hill where the lighthouse is located.  Entry fee was $3.00 each and I left a donation of $2.00. 

We took many pictures of the lighthouse and surrounding area of the village.  Had dinner at a restaurant in the village – not very good.  Not enough time to visit the villages we passed getting here so headed home.  

The ferry MV Caribou approaching Port aux Basques, Newfoundland.
At the village of Fox Roost.
At the village of Fox Roost.
Along side the drive on hwy 470.
Rose Blanche Lighthouse at Rose Blanche.
View from the Rose Blanche Lighthouse

07-02-2007      Mon     Day 92          Trip Meter: 104.6 

Driving Directions:   Got back on TC 1 east.  At jct of NL 490 took it west.  At jct of NL 460 took it west.   

Days Activities:   Departed campground at 10:35 AM.  Light mist and foggy when we left camp.  Within 2 miles changed to light rain and heavy fog.  Intermittent light rain all the way to the campground.  The fog lifted as the road moved away from the coast but returned when it returned to the coast.  At times visibility was less that a 100 yards.   

We are seeing moose signs again but no moose.  In 1904 someone brought 4 moose to Newfoundland.  From those 4 Newfoundland now has a population of over 110,000 moose.  Maybe we will see one before we leave the island. 

  • Campsite:  Zenzvillie Campground & Recreation Park, Kippens, NL – 2 nights - site # 10 - gravel pad - back in - 30 amp, water, sewer.  Cost $23.00 per night.  Rating 5/2.  Got setup at 1:25 PM.  

Additional info:  Have table and fire ring.  Has 120 sites scattered over several areas.  The areas are separated nicely but the sites in each are cramped and trashy looking.  There is a playground, water park, swimming pool, and a dirt buggy track.  The dirt buggy track is a dirt track set up like a go cart track.  It looks like they may run         4-wheelers on it.

Little children all over the campground are riding their little bicycles.  There appears to be a lot of seasonal units here because some of these travel trailers look like they would fall apart if taken out on the road.  

07-03-2007     Tue     Day 93

Fuel:   The jeep at a convenience store in West Bay Centre.  $1.207 = $4.276

Days Activities:   Departed home at 10:40 AM to tour.  Drove out 460 to 462 and took it to Fox Island River. About 5 miles out we drove through landscape that looked just like Alaska. 

The entire village of Fox Island River consists of 50 to 60 houses that are located on the last mile of the road and to the side of the wharf.  The road runs next to the shore of East Bay and the houses are all located on the opposite side of the road. The road ended at the wharf. 

On the way out to Fox Island River we had seen 2 RV’s on a peninsula in East Bay so we decided to drive out to them.  It was a mile out to the peninsula and the peninsula was a mile long.  It was about 200 feet at the narrowest point and 300 yards at the widest.  The road was really rough and took 15 minutes to drive the 2 miles each way.  Had to ford a creek to get there.

We had passed a road named Mine Road”.  Thinking there may be an abandoned mine to see we took it.  It started out really rough but we didn’t figure it would be too far.  About 2 miles in we stopped at an overlook and Sue took pictures of a braided river that reminded us of Alaska.  Never did find anything that could be identified as a “mine” but saw a lot of areas of excavation alongside the road along with vast areas of destroyed trees and vegetation.  There were also numerous roads off the main road.  

We stopped at 1,125 feet and Sue took pictures of the surrounding mountains and East Bay.   The road topped off at 1,245 feet.  Eventually we encountered a parked pickup with an old couple in it.  I asked him if the road came out somewhere ahead of us or did we have to turn around?  He said it ended just over the next little rise at a creek and that we had to go back the way we had come.  He advised we were at a good spot to turn around so we did.  

Got some other information from him.  What was being mined was asbestos.  The ore was not processed on the mountain, it was all hauled out.  He also said that there use to be an airbase at Stephenville.  It had a 5,000 man complement and closed in 1963.

This road is so bad that at times I have to use the brake to slow down when the jeep is just at an idle.  We have been on some bad roads before but believe this is the worst one we have every traveled.  I had intended to bypass 462 so we shouldn’t even be out here, but the view is magnificent.   

I had not measured our trip in so measured it out.  We traveled 4.5 miles across the mountaintop, that being Table Mountain, before we dropped below 1,100 feet.  That is 4.5 miles across the top of the mountain and it took 28 minutes.  The total distance out was 11.1 miles and it took 59 minutes and we came out a good 10 minutes faster than it took to go in.  It was another grand adventure.  This was better than our trip through the forest roads during our 2004 trip in Quebec. 

Got back on 460, at 463 took it.  At Piccadilly we stopped and bought vacuum sealed subs for lunch.  At West Bay Centre stopped and fueled the jeep.  At 463-11 took it out Long Point to Blue Beach.  When the pavement ran out there was another 5 miles of rough road.  We were expecting a scenic drive but it was a great disappointment.  Blue Beach was just a small fishing village.  On the way out we stopped at an overlook, set up our chairs, and ate our lunch.  The view here was the only good part of the trip out Long Point. 

Returned to 463.  In the village of Mainland we stopped and I took some pictures of a house that had a lot of pink paint on the house and a vast amount of either ceramic or concrete articles in the front yard.  Also saw a house that had just burned down.  The walls were all gone but there were a half dozen small fires still going on the foundation – furniture was still blazing.  A police office was setting in his car across the street.  Guess there is no fire department.   

Drove out Cape St George.  It is setting at the point where the Gulf of St Lawrence and St George’s Bay meet.  Would like to be able to park our home here for a week.  Did some serious 4-wheeling to get around the upper point.  Sue got upset with where I was driving. 

Stopped at Sheaves Cove to look at the hidden falls.  There was a sign that directed us to “hidden falls and the beach”.  The falls is dry and the beach is all river rock with huge boulders in the water.  There was no sand to be found anywhere but there is an information center.  We got there right at 5:30 PM and the door was open with a poster board sign made with magic marker that stated “Information – please sign our register”.  We signed the register, the second one to do so today. 

Overlooking the bay were two small lookout platforms.   We walked up to them and had a great view of another waterfalls and St George’s Bay.  The water is so clear we could see out for several hundred feet.  

When we got back at 5:45 PM the door to the information center was already closed but I took a picture anyway - the picture just shows the outside of the shed.  Not a very busy place but another great view.  Another great place to park our home but know they won’t allow it. 

So far we have not seen landscaping of homes or villages.  In many instances the weeds around homes are 12 inches and higher.  The only people we halve seen mowing lawns have been using push mowers or weed eaters.  Where are the riding mowers? 

Stopped at Alpacas of Newfoundland in Felix Cove.  This is the only alpaca farm in Newfoundland.   

Got home at 6:35 PM.  Our tour today was 173 miles.  

A mine road off of hwy 462.
A house in the village of Mainland.
Cape St George.  Where the Gulf of St Lawrence and St George’s Bay meet.
Ramps used to take boats out of the water at Sheaves Cove.
Sue at the overlook at Sheaves Cove.
Stopped at Alpacas of Newfoundland in Felix Cove.  This is really an ulgy Alpaca.

07-04-2007      Wed     Day 94          Trip Meter:  172.7  

Driving Directions:   Back To Stephenville and took 460 back to TC 1 east.  Arrived at the campground. 

Days Activities:   Departed campground at 10:00 AM.  Went to the library in Stephenville to check email but it doesn’t open until 1:00 PM.  Did some shopping and departed town at 11:15 AM.

  • Campsite:   Kona Beach, South Brook, NL – 5 nights - site # 32 - gravel pad - pull thru - 30 amp, water.  Cost $20.52 per night.  Rating 5/5.  Got setup at 3:20 PM.   

Additional info:  There are over 70 sites here.  Our site has a table and fire ring.  It is over 100 feet long with trees separating the sites.  There are back in sites along the beach.  Has a playground, horseshoes, miniature golf for $5.00, a canteen with reasonable priced food, and other assorted amenities.  This is the park with the strange “X” traffic crossing.  Long entrance road on the left and exit road on the right. 

Bought firewood and had a fire.  There was enough wood for 2 fires so will have another tomorrow night. 

Our campsite at Kona Beach, South Brook, NL.

07-05-2007     Thur     Day 95 

Days Activities:   Stayed in all day to rest.  I pulled a muscle in my back a week ago and it seems to have aggravated my back problem.   

Found out from our host that there is a free internet computer available at City Hall in South Brook.  Also 3 grocery stores in Springdale.  

It sprinkled in the afternoon and forced us inside.  It rained during the night.

07-06-2007     Fri     Day 96

Fuel:   The jeep at an Esso station in Kings Point, NL.  $1.212 = $4.323

Days Activities:   Departed home at 10:00 AM.  It is raining this morning.  The weather projection is for rain today, Sat, Sun, with clearing Mon. 

Stopped at the visitors center at South Brook.  Got some information about the area and was advised there would be a barbecue and boat parade in Kings Point at 8:00 PM tonight.

Drove out 392.  Stopped at St. Patrick’s and took a picture of a sawmill.  Drove down a side road to Coffee Cove – just a small village.   Continued down that road to the Little Bay Island Ferry Landing at Shoal Arm.  On the way there we saw our first iceberg.  Took a picture but it was a long way off – but it was an iceberg.  It appeared to be out of the water by at least 50 feet.

Continued out 392 to the end of the road to Beachside.  It is a small village of about 150 houses and one church.  Saw one business - a combination craft shop and café.  It was closed.  Note – a lot of businesses are combined with craft shops.  There was a wharf with some small boats.  There was one large boat with crab pots onboard.

On the way back out I saw a sign in Little Bay that depicted a mine.  It was on the backside of the board that had “Welcome to Little Bay”.  Wasn’t sure if it meant anything but turned around and took a gravel road up into the hill.  At the top of the hill we found an old mine that had a cover over the shaft with warning signs to keep away.  From the mine we looked down and could see the road that led out to the ferry.  We walked up to the top of the hill and we could see the iceberg.  We found soapstone lying on the hill.  I picked up a small piece.  Got some good 4-wheeling in.

Drove back into Springdale for lunch.  Had something called “Mess”.  It was a plate of fries covered with gravy, cornbread dressing, grounded meat, weenies, and onions.  It was really good.  

Then we went to the H.C. Grant Heritage Museum.  It was located in a house that was started in 1917 by a man that was killed during WW I.  Mr. Grant purchased it in 1919 and completed it in 1920.  He lived in it until 1979.  When he moved out he sold it to the city for $1.00 and they made it a museum.  It is 3 stories with 3 rooms and a large front porch on the first floor, 4 rooms on the second, and 2 rooms for servants on the third.  The bathroom on the second floor was installed in 1939.  It contains period furniture and artifacts from the surrounding area.  

At some time in his life Mr. Grant raised fox and mink for 9 years.  In later years he was the mayor of Springdale.  Even though there was a village at this location prior to 1917 there was not a road to the village until 1952.  Access was by boat, plane, walking trail, horse, or buggy.  Mr. Grant was responsible for the development of the village.  All of the utilities were installed while he was mayor.  Springdale is a small town of 3,500, is the shopping center for the area, and serves a shopping population of 12,000.   

The young lady that gave the tour was still in high school.  She didn’t know much about the house or Mr. Grant and there was very little available about him but he must have been quite a force.  The main industry in this area seems to be mining and logging.  She did tell us that copper, nickel, and other minerals were being mined.  She said things like that were not taught in school.  She did know that two mines had recently reopened – one copper and one nickel.  Free admission but we left a $5.00 donation.  It was very interesting. 

Then we went to the Mainmast Museum.  It is a small one-room fishing shack located on the wharf.  It was owned by a fisherman that died and left it to his son.  When he died the son took all of his fishing gear, stacked it in the shack, and opened it as a museum.  The door was locked but there was a bell to ring for admission.  We looked in the window and saw junk just piled around the room.  Since there were no labels or anything to identify the items we didn’t think it would be very productive.  The room resembled a rummage sale.  Cost would have been $2.50 each.  It stopped raining about 3 PM.   

Left at 6:30 PM to go to Kings Point – took 391.  I understood the visitors center host to say the boat parade started at 8 PM.  When we got there we found that the barbecue, to be grilled hamburgers, started at 8 PM and the parade at 10 PM.  It started raining and the village and bay were covered by heavy fog.  We decided not to wait that long so had dinner at By The Sea Café.  We each had a delicious bowl of seafood chowder.  While eating was advised the mayor had just cancelled the night’s activities because of weather.   

Heard on the radio that the Canadian dollar had hit a 30 year high against the USA dollar – 95 cents plus. 

Got home at 8:20 PM.  Mileage today was 124 – note that 45 of those miles was back to Kings Point for the busted boat parade.

Sawmill at St. Patrick's on hwy 392.
Our first iceberg sighting,  It was on the way to Little Bay Island Ferry Landing at Shoal Arm

07-07-2007     Sat     Day 97

Days Activities:   No rain this morning and occasionally the sun peeks out of the clouds.

Departed home at 11:15 AM.  Drove to King’s Point and took 391-10 out to Rattling Brook.  Stopped and walked the Rattling Brook Falls Trail.  On the way stopped and climbed out on rocks in the creek that flows from the falls and took pictures.  The water is the color of a lite beer – appears to be a lot of minerals in the water.  It has stained the rocks in the creek.  There is a lot of foam on the creek.  However, the water was still clear and we could see the bottom of the creek where there were not rapids.  We could see the bottom portion of the falls from our position on the rocks. 

From the parking lot it was about 500 feet out to a viewing platform but the view of the falls is restricted because there is a twist to it and we can only see the bottom half of it.  About 100 feet back down the trail was another trail that lead to a stairway to a higher viewing platform.  We went back and climbed it.

The stairs were in two primary sections with 8” risers.  The first section had 95 steps that covered about 400 feet.  The first 200 feet only had about 12 to 15 steps in it.  There would be a step then a 12 to 20 foot straightaway.  The remainder of the section twisted up the hill with a few steps then a 4 to 6 foot straightaway.  This section was a nice easy climb.

The second section was 109 steps with the first 55 being continuous steps to a small landing, turned 90 degrees, then the remaining 54 steps broken with periodic 4 to 6 feet straight-aways.   There was a large viewing platform at the top with an excellent view of the falls.  We took pictures but didn’t get all we wanted because the batteries failed in the camera. 

Across the road from the parking lot was a gazebo.  A sign in the parking lot requested all visitors go there and sign the guest book.  We were the third set of visitors today.  At the gazebo there were 15 to 20 pieces of firewood that was cluttering the landscape.  I felt it was my civic duty to clean it up so I loaded all of them into the jeep. 

When we drove back through King’s Point we stopped and bought batteries for the camera.  Stopped at King’s Point Pottery.  Didn’t buy anything but Sue really enjoyed looking and talking with the owner. 

Across the street from King’s Point Pottery was a stack of whalebones with a sign that said reconstruction of the whale was started on January 1, 2002 and would be completed in 5½ years.  No work had been started.  In the picture Sue took of the Pottery there are 2 men digging postholes.  One of them is responsible for the reconstruction project.  We talked to him about it.  It seems the whale drown in 2001 at Fogo Island, several hundred miles away.  They towed it to King’s Point, cleaned the skeleton, and requested a grant to reconstruct it.  Grant money was just approved this year and we were told that reconstruction was about to begin and would be completed next year.  The reconstructed whale will be 50 feet long.  We didn’t see that many bones.  I took a picture of the bone pile.  There must be more bones somewhere else. 

We were also told that another whale, 40 feet long, drown this year.  No one wanted it and the government would not let it be taken out and sank so it was beached and burned.  Was told it took 7 days to burn and really stank up the area.

At 1:20 PM it started to sprinkle.  We just can’t get a dry day.

Drove out 380 to Pilley’s Island.  As we entered town saw cars parked around the community center so we stopped.  They are celebrating Pilley’s Island Day.  We helped them celebrate by having lunch.  Sue had a hamburger plate and I had a 2-porkchop dinner.  We were given 2 small trees to plant.

So far in every town we have been in, provided there is a city government, there has been a Salvation Army building.  It is usually the largest building in town. 

Between Pilley’s Island and Triton we saw huge stacks of firewood stacked along side the road.  Some of it appears to have been left over from last year.  I mean huge amounts.

Fog set in at Triton so we didn’t get any pictures.  We continued on out 380-16 to Brighton.  A note about 380.  It runs across several islands.  Philley’s Island is a small island, then you cross over onto Triton Island that is about 20 miles long, then you come to Brighton.  Part of Brighton is located on the end of Triton Island and then on 2 more small islands of less than a half mile each.  Each island is connected with short bridges of less than 300 feet long.

At Brighton we saw 3 large icebergs and about 50 large chunks of ice in Pilley’s Tickle (how about that for a name of a stretch of water).  One of the icebergs was setting about 100 feet off the government wharf.  It had a beautiful blue color to it.  The fog had started to lift but still kept us from getting real good pictures.  I took other shots of the wharf area.  Looking out into Notre Dame Bay I could see another huge iceberg through the fog but it was no clear enough to get a picture.  Visibility was only about a quarter mile. 

There are no glaciers here – the icebergs float in from far distances.  This happens every year.  This made our whole trip worthwhile today and then we had the waterfall too.

The fog had lifted when we returned through Triton so I was able to get some pictures of some shacks on the bay and a boat loaded with logs.

Drove out 382 to the Long Island Ferry.  Just wanted to see what the ferry looked like.  It was a 5-mile gravel road.  The map indicates it is paved on the other side.  

We have seen a lot of beach on the drive today and yesterday but it has all been rock beach.  Oh where did the sand go?

Most of the houses we have seen in Newfoundland have wooden containers out front.  I asked someone about them and verified they were trash containers.  Bagged trash is stored in them and the trash collector collects them.  The majority of the ones we have seen are hexagon in shape with either a clear finish or painted. 

Got back home at 6:15 PM.  The tour today was 139 miles.  I built a fire using some of the firewood I picked up as a concerned citizen.

Our neighbors stopped at our fire for a visit.  They are from Grand Falls, NL, about 90 km from here.  They are retiring next year and are considering going fulltime.  Don’t remember their names but she has a sister that has lived in Dallas over 20 years and is a nurse.  He said they are upgrading from the current 5th wheel to a used motorhome when they retire.  He had questions about towing a vehicle.  He is thinking of buying a used motorhome in Florida or Arizona because more are available in those 2 states than anywhere else.  He makes fruit wine and gave us a bottle of his apple wine.  It has a nice label but no winery name.  Sealed with a cork.

Rattling Brook Falls Creek.  The water is the color of lite beer.
Whale bones from a 50 ' whale at King's Point waiting for reconstruction.
In Philly's Tickle at Brighton this iceberg was setting about 100 feet off the government wharf. 
Pilley’s Island Day being celebrated at the community center.
One of the ways they transport logs.
One of the many different types of "chip trucks" we saw while travelling through Newfoundland.

07-08-2007     Sun     Day 98 

Days Activities:   It rained all night long and still at it this morning.  I found the carpet underneath the bedroom door wet about 2:30 AM.  It has been wet before but this time I was able to trace it to where it was coming from.  Appears to be the seal around the roadside slide.  I checked the front outside seal this morning and about a foot of it was turned in.  I pulled it out.  The rear outside seal was completely turned in.  I pulled it out.  Will start checking them when the slide is extended.

Since it is still raining we are staying in today. 

07-09-2007      Mon     Day 99          Trip Meter:   67.3   

Driving Directions:   Got back on TC 1 east.  Got off at exit 21 to the campground. 

Days Activities:   Departed campground at 11:00 AM and it was 48 degrees.  The weather report was for clear and sunny but we broke camp in a light mist and had it all the way to Grand Falls-Windsor.   

When we went through Corner Brook several days ago we had used a calling card to call for reservations.  Our cell phones were not getting a signal.  I used a new 30-minute card we had and used a pay phone.  There was a 29-minute charge to connect so that only left one minute to talk.  Didn’t have enough time to make the reservation.  So I used a new 120-minute card.  At the connection was informed there were only 19 minutes call time left.  That is a very expensive connection fee. 

By the time we got to Grand Falls-Windsor we had determined we do not have any cell phone access.  Stopped at Wal-Mart in Grand Falls-Windsor and purchased a $10.00 calling card for use in Canada.  It appears the cost is about 8 cents a minute.  

Drove on to Bishop’s Falls and got off at exit 21 and went to the campground.  The campground was full but there is an overflow area.  We looked at it but it will take a lot to level and was afraid the rams will go through the asphalt.  There is another campground in town so unhooked the jeep and drove to it.  It is a dump and would be very hard to get into.  Returned to the municipal park and talked to the park attendant about my concern about the asphalt and was told it should not be a problem.  So we parked in the overflow.   

  • Campsite:   Fallsview Municipal Park, Bishop’s Falls, NL – 3 nights 
  • First night was in overflow parking – NO site # - asphalt parking lot - back in, no services.  Cost $11.00 per night.  Rating 1/4.  Got setup at 3:15 PM.  
  • Second & third nights had a service site - site # 5 - gravel pad - back in - 20 amp, water.  Cost $15.00 per night.  Rating 4/3.   

Additional info:  After we moved up the hill to the regular campground we had a table.  The RV’s are parked in a circle with a large common area in the middle and a large hexagon pavilion.  In the overflow we had a great view of a small bay and the falls.  After we moved our view was the main drag through town.  On the other side of the park the sites have a great view of the bay. 

Bishop’s Falls is called a “drive through community”.  I believe that is what we refer to as a “bedroom community”.  The town is over 5 miles long and there are only a few side streets in a small part of town.  In most of the town all of the residences are on the main drag.  The town has a combination part-time library/city hall, a school, 2 groceries stores, a pharmacy, a gas station, 2 restaurants, a dairy bar, and a few other assorted small businesses, but on the whole it is primarily a bedroom community.    

At 5 PM we drove back to Grand Falls-Windsor and called Peyton’s Woods RV in Twillingate and made reservations for 23-29 July.  Will have site #9 at $25.00 per day, cash.  Reason for this stop is a 7 day festival that our neighbor at the last campground told Sue was the largest and best festival in Newfoundland.   

We are also returning to the Salmon Festival in Grand Falls-Windsor on the 19th.  We drove out to Beothuck Park and reserved a site for 4 days.  Had to pay 2 days in advance – paid $44.00.   

Making these 2 festivals will involve some doubling back on TC 1 but we believe it will be worth it.   


  • In Newfoundland they do not “drive in restaurants”, they have “take outs”. 
  • They have “chip trucks”.  That is a vehicle they sell french fries out of.  Have seen them using a bus, pickup, van, trailer, and 5th wheel.
  • These people are nuts for french fries.  Entire menus are dedicated to ways to prepare french fries.  Everything imaginable is put on them including bread dressing.  We have even seen a taco with french fries on a menu. 
Our campsite at Fallsview Municipal Park, Bishop’s Falls, NLThis is the overflow area,  Notice how much I had to raise the front to level. 
Our second campsite at Fallsview Municipal Park, Bishop’s Falls, NLWe were able to move to the regular campground the next day.
The dam next to the campground.  Fisherman catch salmon here.  There is a salmon ladder at the dam.  The building on the left is the interpretive center.
An interesting tent in the campground.

07-10-2007     Tue     Day 100 

Fuel:   The jeep in Point Leamington at a Western Petro.  $1.213 = $4.326 

Days Activities:   Departed home at 8:55 AM.  Drove out 350 to Point Leamington for the festival but there are no activities until 7:00 PM.  As we drove through town I took a picture of an old boat that has rusted out and partially buried.  Walked out on a jetty of rocks for the picture and discovered hundreds of mussel attached to the rocks.  Found out this is very common around here and people gather them.  Also took some pictures of rustic looking docks.   

At the heritage center (we didn’t go into the center) there was a trail called Rowsell’s Hill.  It was 1.5 km, one way, with an elevation of 190 meters.  The current elevation at the foot of the trail was about 10 meters.  The sign at the foot of the trail seemed to indicate there was a waterfall at the end of the trail.  We started walking. 

The first half of the walk was over huge rocks, along the river, and through some very mosquito infested wetland.  We did not spray for mosquitoes before we left and that was a bad mistake.  There were boardwalks through the wetlands.  The climb was constantly uphill.   

About half way we came to Jacob’s Ladder.  It was a set of stairs that contained 293 steps – one section of 77 steps with no landing.     

Took 1 hr 5 min to get to the top - there were no falls, just a lookout platform that provided a fantastic view of the area.  We took many pictures.  Sue had also taken numerous pictures during the climb up.  We spent about 20 minutes on the top and 45 min to get back down. 

On the trail we saw a lot of animal poop.  Believe it may be moose poop but not sure.  There are supposed to be a lot of moose in the mountains.   

We never saw a moose print in the dirt but we did see a paw print that was about 4 inches across.  Belonged to a very large animal of the cat family.  

Summary – The climb round trip was 1.8 miles, took 1 hr 50 min, and was a height of 585 feet of which 388 feet consisted of 666 steps with 7 inches risers.    

The water in the river was very clear but was the color of a lite beer.  So far all of the creeks and small rivers we have seen that have rapids have been this color.  The color is only visible when the water sprays into the air. 

Took 350-21 to Glover’s Harbour to the Home of the Giant Squid.  Squid fishing is a major industry in this area.  On Nov 2nd, 1878, a giant squid was landed here and still holds the Guinness record.  It was estimated to weigh 2.2 ton, was 55 feet long, had an eyeball that measured 15¾ inches in diameter, and had a skin 3½ inches thick.  The squid was chopped up for dog food.  A museum was established to give the history of the squid and the squid fishing industry and an exact size structure of the giant squid is on display.  Sue took a picture.  Cost $2.00 each. 

A note about giant squid – they grow very rapidly and usually only live from 1 to 3 years with an occasional one living to 5 years.  The male reaches maturity in one year and has been recorded with a length of up to 24 feet.  The female is larger.  The longest recorded giant squid was found in New Zealand and was 57 feet long.  They are believed to grow even larger but since they live at 1,500 meters the only ones that are ever seen or caught are sick ones that come to the surface.    

Continued on 350 to Leading Tickles.  Stopped at the Jack Ward General Store, the oldest structure still in this village.  It has been restored to its original appearance.  The first floor was the store and the second was living quarters.  Today the first floor is a gift shop and the second is a museum with some original items and other period items that have been donated.  Cost $2.00 each.   

The lady that gave the tour was great.  We spent about one hour doing the tour and talking.  Asked her about all of the wood we see along side the road.  She said that in the winter the men need something to do so they get a wood permit.  They go out into the forest with their snowmobiles and chop the wood.  Using the snowmobiles they haul the wood out to the side of the road and stack/pile it up.  In the fall they use their pickups to haul the wood home.  Permits are issued for a set number of cords.  Some of it is cut to firewood length and the larger logs are cut to 8-foot lengths.  Later logs are cut up for firewood or taken to the sawmill and milled to lumber.  All of the piles/stacks of wood have the permit number attached to them.  She said that at their home they had enough wood to last 10 years – that some of it was so rotten it was unusable.  Her husband is a fisherman and continues to cut wood in the winter to have something to do. 

Sue asked about heating.  It seems many of the homes have both electric heat and wood heat.  The lady we were talking to has a basement in her house.  The furnace is in the basement, is wood fired, and heat ducts are installed throughout the house.  The furnace is thermostat controlled and uses a forced air fan to circulate the heat through the house.  As we were leaving town we saw a man standing in his basement and it was full of firewood.   

She also told us about murmurs.  It is a tradition whereas people dress up in costumes with their head and face covered.  In a group they go around the neighborhood and take their musical instruments.  When they are invited into a home they play their instruments and dance Newfoundland jigs.  The homeowner then tries to guess the identify of the person.  When the identity is guessed correctly the person removes their head cover and the homeowner has to give them a drink, usually rum or whiskey.  She said that after a few houses they usually have to stop because it starts getting hard to stand up.  Apparently that has been a custom for many years in Newfoundland but has been stopped in the larger cities because people don’t want to invite masked people into their homes.  She said that because they live in such a small village the custom is still carried on.   

The harbour freezes but not hard.  She said that it is not hard enough to take snowmobiles out on it.  They get a lot of icebergs in the harbour when it starts thawing.  In the early fall the caplin, a small fish, comes into the harbour and the whales follow them.  She said that it is a wonderful sight to be able to set at home and watch the whale.   

Oceanview Park, a city park, is located on the Notre Dame Bay.  Camping is available - $18.00 for water and electric.  Cost $5.00 to get in or $10.00 for a season pass.  We were told it was a real nice park and campground with beach access and other recreational activities.  

Leading Tickles didn’t get electricity until 1970 and telephones until 1974.  Jack Ward had a generator and when someone had an electric appliance or tool they needed to run they took it to the store and he charged a fee for use of his generator.   

The museum and park are actually on Culls Island but when the causeway was installed in 1969 the island was incorporated into Leading Tickles.  It is still listed as Culls Island on the map.  It was a great stop on today’s tour. 

On the way back home we stopped in Point Leamington and took pictures of people fishing in the river.  There is a small city campground right next to the river.  Appears to be free with a 14-day stay limit – no services.   

When we got back to the campground we took pictures of Bishop’s falls and the spillway.  The spillway is actually the top of the dam.    

Got back home at 5:10 PM – trip was 110 miles.  On our return the attendant told us there was a site in the campground available if we wanted it.  We decided to take it and stay an additional day.  

After we got moved I sat outside and read.  I got to talking to our neighbors.  He was working on his fly rod and she was helping.  They are from St. John’s and come here every year because, in his opinion, this is the best place to fish for salmon.  He finished his rod and walked down to the river.  I continued talking to the wife.  She is a revenue agent for Revenue Canada.  Her primary job is as a field auditor but is currently the manager in a group that is working to increase the size of the call site operation.  She said that when she started work in this group there were 25 employees assigned and now they have 300.  Last year their accuracy on questions was 88%.  I really enjoyed talking to her. 

Went to dinner at a Mexican restaurant.  Don’t remember the name but there are only two restaurants in town.  The lady that owns this one, she is from Mexico, has been in Newfoundland 4 years but only opened the restaurant 2 months ago.  It is a nice looking place but we were the only customers.  In our short talk with her she sounded like the restaurant may not make it because of the Newfoundlander’s tastes. 

Just a rusty old boat I found interesting.
At Point Leamington we climbed Rowsell’s Hill.  It was 1.5 km, one way, with an elevation of 190 meters.  Nearly to the top.  A very tired climber.
Overlook at the summit.
Great view from the overlook.
Took hwy 350-21 to Glover’s Harbour to the Home of the Giant Squid. 
Nice view of a dock in Leading Tickles. 

07-11-2007     Wed     Day 101 

Days Activities:   We drove into town and stopped at the post office and got the postal code for St John’s.  Went to the library and checked email.  Sent Karen an email with the postal code so she could send our mail there. 

Drove into Grand Falls-Windsor and purchased tickets for “The 23rd Annual Exploits Valley Salmon Festival” on July 19 and “Neptune & Nectar” on July 22.  The Salmon Festival is a salmon dinner with entertainment.  The Neptune & Nectar is a wine tasting with cheese and entertainment.  Tickets costs $30.00 each. 

Someone had clothes hanging out to dry in the pavilion.  We drove to the other side of the river and walked down to the salmon run.  Only saw a few fish.  Visited with neighbors.  They live in Clarenville, a couple of hour’s northwest of St. John’s on TC 1.

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