Lonnie and Sue - Traveling North America

Touring Prince Edward Island in 2004

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09-05-04SunDay 79Out at:  10:55 AMTrip meter:  91 

Going to Prince Edward Island (PEI) – headed out on the 15 east.  Note that while the 15 west of Shediac was a controlled access 4-lane highway with a speed limit of 110 km/h, the 15 east is just a little 2-lane highway with a speed limit of 100 km/h.  After about 25 miles took the 955 north – part of the Arcadian drive.  First 5 miles was through wooded and grass land.  Saw a lot of hay that had been baled and wooded land that was being cleared.  After 5 miles arrived at the coast.  The first 10 miles of this road was very narrow and very rough.  The speed limit was 80 km/h but my top speed was 45 km/h with the most of it at 40 km/h.  After 10 miles the road got wider and smoother and the speed limit was reduced to 70 km/h.   

Arrived at the Confederation Bridge at 12:30 PM.  Stopped at the tourist center at the entrance to the bridge but they only had brochures for New Brunswick.  The bridge is a toll bridge - you don’t pay a toll going over – it is all collected coming back.  Believe it will cost around $60 to $70.  The bridge is 8 miles long – very tall for shipping – with a high hump for real tall ships – speed limit 80 km/h.  I traveled it at 70 km/h and it took 11 minutes.   

The compass is having a fit. It is bouncing at least 90 degrees. Working fine after we got off the bridge. Something on the bridge was causing the interference. 

Stopped at the tourist center at the foot of the bridge on the PEI side.  There is a small community built up around the center – wants first grab at the tourist dollars.  Sue picked up a brochure for a Mexican restaurant in Charlottetown so it looks like we will be eating there this trip.  She has been having sever withdrawal.   

We are going to a campground in Harrington.  There are a lot of turns on a lot of different county roads.  From the bridge we took the 1 north – the 1A west – the 225 east – the 9 east – the 2 south – the 223 north – the 220 east – and finally the 15 north.   

Stopped at Harrington Fun Park & Campground, Harrington, PEI – Have water, electric, and sewer.  Stayed 5 nights - grassy.  Park is build on a slope so had to level side to side - no trees in the park but have tall pines surrounding the area – park has a driving range and a miniature golf course.  Got set up at 3:50 AM.  Have satellite.  We have DirecTv with an 18" dish. 

There is a cheese factory about 3 miles from here so we headed for it before realizing this is Sunday and they were closed.  We have trouble keeping our days straight.  Went ahead and did about a 20 mile drive around the area.  

There are 14 coaches and trailers in the campground – Alaska 1 – Arizona 1 – Georgia 1 – Florida 1 – Kansas 1 – Michigan 3 – Nevada 1 – Oregon 1 – Quebec 1 – Texas 3.  Note that out of 14 rigs only 1 was from Canada

09-06-04MonDay 80 - Will tour the Anne of Green Gable’s area out of this park.  Departed camp at 9 40 AM for Charlottetown, the capitol of PEI.  It is a town of 32,000 and is by far the largest town on the island.  The island has a population of just over 135,000. 

Went to the tourist center and got a map for several walking tours but had forgotten this is Labor Day – many of the places were closed.  Decided to just drive around the coast and walk the town another day – it is also cool and extremely windy today.  See photos.

The island is divided in 6 distinct areas.  Charlottetown is in the Charlotte’s Shore area.  Each area has a substantial amount of coastline.  This area’s coastline is on the southern side of the island and contains a peninsular.  We toured the south part of town and then drove out to the peninsular.  

In the short time we have been in PEI we have seen more Bed & Breakfast’s, Hotels, and Golf courses than any place we have been.

The terrain here is rolling.  It consists of wooded areas and farmland.  We have seen several log trucks hauling logs for cutting into firewood.  During our drive today we say numerous potato fields – they grow over 12 varieties and export to over 40 countries.  About half of what we saw had already been defoliated and some was still a bright and cheerful green.  Saw one farmer defoliating and the spray rig on his tractor was about 50 feet wide.  Saw at least 100 pasture and hay fields – some with the hay cut and drying – some with the hay baled and still in the field – and some just recently cleared.  Saw several dairy herds and several herds that I believe may be dairy herds – they looked like mature cattle not beef cattle.  And we have not seen much of the country yet.  So far all of the farmland has been on hills – very little flat area so far. 

Stopped at several campgrounds – there are a lot of them.  There are also 13 provincial parks on the island.  A note about the golf courses – they are built on the rolling hills.  From experience I know it makes for extremely difficult play.

Saw a little red fox walking along side the road with a bushy tail about as long as the rest of the fox.

Stopped at Fort Amherst Historical Site as the tip of the peninsular.  There are two lighthouses located there.  Sue took some pictures.  You could look across the bay and see Charlottetown.   

Stopped at the “Blue Goose Bakery & Restaurant” for lunch.  I had the hamburger steak – cooked until it was dry like shoe leather – the gravy was watery with no flavor – the mashed potatoes were extremely dry with no flavor – had cabbage and carrots which I did not care for at all.  Sue had the pork chop special – the pork chop was over cooked and very dry – she did not like the cabbage but she ate a little bit of the carrots.  None of it was salted.  We salted and salted before determining the salt shaker was filled with sugar.  Very forgettable lunch – would not recommend this place to anyone – not even George Bush.  The only redeeming feature was the dibble of cold slaw we got in a little 2 oz paper cup and the fresh baked roll.  

Stopped at the cheese factory – “Cheese Lady’s Fromage Cheese”.  They will not be making anymore cheese until early Wednesday morning.  Saw a video on how it is made.  All of the milk used comes from their 65-cow dairy.  The husband takes care of the cows and the wife makes all of the cheese.  We bought one wedge and it is really good.  According to the video there are over 500 dairy operations on the island.  Talked to the attendant about the beef cattle operations but she didn’t have any idea how big it is here but she said there was some. 

Since this is a holiday there have been quite a few people out in the front of their little bitsy houses on their riding lawnmowers mowing their huge huge lawns. Saw one man mowing a front yard that was at least 10 acres.

Lighthouse at Fort Amherst.

Our drive today covered about 95 miles.

Decided we will go and see “Anne of Green Gables The Musical” playing at the Confederation Centre in Charlottetown.  Made plans to go tour the town on Wednesday, have dinner at the Mexican restaurant, then see the play on.  Curtain goes up at 8 PM. 

09-07-04TueDay 81 - Departed camp at 9:55 AM – going driving around the northern shoreline in the “Anne’s Land” area and work our way over to Cavendish – the town with all of the Anne of Green Gable’s stuff.  See photos.

Drove through the “Prince Edward Island National Park”.  All of the activities plus admission charges to the park ceased as of this morning.  It all closes down the day after Labor Day.  However, we were able to drive through the park.  Stopped at “Dalvay Pond” on the road through the park.  It is a fresh water pond located about 300 yards from the ocean.  There was a wooden walkway to the pond and then out on the pond.  The walkway was .5 km long.  The first 2/3’s of it was through trees and tall brush and the last 1/3 was build on pontoons out over the pond.  The majority of the pond is less than 2 feet deep.  There was also a side trail that was .5 km long that was gravel and went out to a wooden tower that overlooked wetlands.  We walked both trails for a total walk of 2 km. 

We stopped and walked along the beach.  The tide brought in a lot of kelp.  In the kelp were mussels – more than enough for a feast for several people if they were collected.  We didn’t.  Also collected some seashells.   

Stopped at the wharf at Covehead Harbour.  Several fishing boats operate out of here.  Decided to return Thursday and go mackerel fishing at 1 PM.  Drove out on a finger of land at the west side of the park and on the way back decided to change plans.  Since it is a pretty day today, decided to go fishing now, do Cavendish tomorrow, and Charlottetown Thursday.  Returned to the wharf. 

We had lunch, I purchased a ticket for the 1 PM fishing boat ride Sue returned to camp.  She will return at 4 PM to pick me up.  Went out on Richard’s Deep Sea Fishing boat the “Flying Hawk II”.  There were 7 of us fishing plus the captain.  At the first stop only one person caught a fish.  At the second stop only the captain caught one fish.  At the second, third, fourth, and fifth stops no one caught a fish.  At the sixth stop I caught 4 (they should have been thrown back but since we weren’t catching many they became keepers), the captain caught 8 the size of mine, and 2 other people caught 3 fair size fish.  When we returned to port the captain cleaned all of the fish but only 2 of us wanted any.  I ended up with enough for 2 messes – 6 small whole ones and 5 filets - will cook them on the grill.  The wind was blowing and the waves were coming up over the side of the boat but it was still a wonderful trip.  On return to port noticed a boat named “Justanother Payment II”.  

Having trouble with the satellite signal.  I got up on top of the coach and checked the dish.  It is not loose at the mount but the joints in the dish itself are loose and we lose the signal when it is hit by wind burst.  I talked to our next door neighbor – he has a dome.  He said he does not lose the signal in high winds.  However, he has not been able to get a signal here.  We did not have TV tonight because of wind .

09-08-04WedDay 82 - Departed camp at 9:30 AM.  Going to drive the coastline, go to Cavendish, then swing down through Kensington on the way back to camp.  Will not have time to tour Kensington, it is just mentioned as a reference point.  We took the 220 to Grand Tracadie to start the coastline drive.  See photos.

Stopped at “Gaudreau Fine Woodworking” in South Rustico.  The man does some beautiful work – turnings, jewelry boxes, wine racks, etc – most of it in birdseye maple.  There was also a lot of pottery and fine stoneware on display.  Sue found it a wonderful exhibit but we didn’t buy anything – it was very pricey.  

Stopped in Rustico.  It is advertised as the oldest continually occupied town on PEI.  This is where the Arcadians immigrated when they were expelled from Nova Scotia in 1755.  Went to the “Farmers Bank of Rustico Museum” that is located in the Farmers Bank building that was built in 1864.  The Farmers Bank building is a National Historical Site.   Found some facts about the island.  

In 1734 Captain Samuel Holland divided the island into 67 lots, each containing about 20,000 acres.  The lots were then distributed to influential Englishmen through a lottery.  The lots were laid out in the same way the road grid is on the island today – in a long rectangular shape running southwest to northeast and southeast to northwest.  I would imagine a lot of the highways are on the old boundary lines.  

The St Augustine’s church was setting next to the museum.  It has a very distinctive square bell tower.  The original church at this site was built in 1772 – it was a log structure 25’ by 30’.  In 1806 it was replaced with a 35’ by 45’ structure.  In 1834 plans for the current church were drawn but construction was not started until early 1838.  The shell was completed in time for Christmas service that year but the inside was not completed until 1845.  The church is 50’ by 90’ with an 80’ bell tower.   See photos.

Stopped at the “Toy Factory” in New Glasgow.  They make their own wooden toys but no one was working today.  They do allow tours when in operation.  They make a lot of game toys, cars, trucks, boats, and jigsaw puzzles .   

Got to Cavendish at 12:30 PM and had lunch.  Went to the Green Gables visitor center.  I had to stand in the middle of the parking lot while Sue tried her shoe.   We saw a short film about L.M. Montgomery.  Green Gables was the actual name of this farm. 

Green Gables is not where Montgomery lived – she lived close by – the owner of the farm was a relative.  However, Green Gables was the farm used as reference in her books.  David Macneill Sr acquired Green Gables in 1831.  When he died in 1891 the farm was passed to his son, David Jr.  In 1906 David’s second niece, Myrtle, and her husband Ernest Webb, took over the farm. 

The barn has been reconstructed on the same site and in the same configuration as the original barn.  It is a recent reconstruction – within the last few years.  However, one portion of the barn is now an ice cream shop.  I’m sure that portion of the original barn was used for something else.

St. Augustine Church.  It is next to the “Farmers Bank of Rustico Museum”.
The house has 15 rooms. Looking from the front of the house, on the right side of the door is the original section that was built in 1831. That section of the house is the kitchen now. When it was built it was a single story and was the entire house. In 1870 the first addition was built. It included the 2-story section that is to the left. In 1920 the second story over the kitchen was added. This section was added to allow for boarders. With the interest created by the books, tourists were already starting to come to the farm. Since there were no places to stay the Webb’s just added rooms and started creating new revenue for the farm.

We took a walk through Haunted Woods. There are enough tall straight spruce trees in the short distance we walked to build a small community of log cabins.

We each got a double dip ice cream cone from the barn ice cream store. It started to rain while we were eating them.

When the Prince Edwards National Park was established in 1937 they took the farm of Green Gables as part of the park. Ernest Webb stayed on a caretaker of the farm until 1946. 

At 2:30 PM I made the comment that we had only been 40 miles today. Sue said, “yes we have just been fiddle farting around”. That is a most uncharacteristic comment from her.

Most of my driving in PEI has been at 35 to 40 mph. What makes the touring so spectacular is that you never know what is over the next hill or around the next bend. You top a hill and there is a beautiful valley with green pastures and fields or a small cove with a wharf and colorful boats. Every hill and turn is an experience.

Anne of Green Gables house.
Drove down to a lighthouse to get a picture and saw a pumpkin patch with 3 pumpkins. One of them was over 3 feet in diameter.

Drove out to the Maple Syrup factory but it was closed. It was about 5 miles out in the woods on a dirt road in someone’s barn.  We have seen very few fences. When there is a fence you usually see cattle or horses.

Got back to camp at 5:30 PM. Trip today was about 124 miles. Not bad mileage for 8 hours. During our trips we take all of the side roads be they paved or dirt. Nearly all of them terminate at a dead end and we have to backtrack to the highway. We know they are dead ends before we take them but they are scenic roads and usually end at the ocean. They have great views. Some have required 4-wheel driving 

09-09-04ThurDay 83 - Departed camp at noon – going to Charlottetown.  Two more units moved into camp this morning – one from Georgia and one from North Dakota.  One moved in last night from Michigan and one two days ago from Oklahoma.  Most of the units that were here when we arrived have already departed but the one from Quebec is still here.  It rained last night and still going strong when we left camp. 

Saw our first traffic accident since we have been in Canada.  It looks like a car tried to shove a pickup with a long horse trailer off the road.  Two other cars got tangled in the mess.  We had been involved in a 4-hour traffic jam outside of Toronto, on the 401, that was the result of a wreck with fatalities but we never saw it.  It was cleared by the time we passed the site.

Went to the library and checked email and got our bank statement.  Went to the racetrack and determined they raced on Thursdays and Saturdays at 7:30 PM.  Got our tickets to “Anne of Green Gables” for tonight.  Doors open at 7:30 PM and the performance starts at 8 PM.   

We drove down a dirt road to the lighthouse and found this really big pumpkin.

Departed camp at 6:00 PM for Charlottetown.  Going to dinner at a Mexican restaurant before going to the theatre.  Went to dinner at Pat & Willy’s Cantina.  Sue got her fix.  Walked to the theatre by way of the Confederation Mall.  Saw a bookstore and they were selling books @ $5.00 per pound.   

The show was wonderful – well worth seeing.  Arrived back in camp at 11:10 PM.  Drove the jeep 358 miles this stop 

09-10-04FriDay 84Out at:  11:20 AMTrip meter:  53 

Took the 15 south to the 2 east to the Trans-Canada Hwy intersection at the Charlottetown bridge, then east across the bridge on the Trans-Canada hwy.  Continued east to Orwell, turned onto the 210 east for about 1 mile then turned onto the 24 south, then at intersection of the 24/324 took the 324 east to the 17A, then took the17A south to the campground.  Note that the 17A turned into the 17.  

Arrived at Seal Cove Campground, Murray Harbour North, PEI – Have water and electric (15 amp service).  Stayed 5 nights.  Sites are grassy and level.  Has a 9-hole golf course and miniature golf course, and we can dig clams.  Got setup at 2:45 PM.  High winds so did not put out awning or satellite dish.  We are parked so that we have a good view of the cove.  

The park is crowded because there is a trailer club meeting here this weekend.  That is the reason we could only get 15-amp service.

We took a walk on the beach.  Talked to a couple that comes here quite frequently.  Was told that when the tide is out the seals often come onto the beach – hence the name of the campground.  If they don’t you can walk out on the point and see them play.

We were invited to go to the clubhouse and listen to music by members of the trailer group.  I went but Sue stayed in.  The music was not very good but was a lot of fun.  This group is all from PEI.  They meet at different campgrounds 6 weekends in the spring and 6 weekends in the fall.  They leave the summer for the tourist. 

09-11-04 SatDay 85 - We are in the “Hills & Harbours” area here. Departed camp at 9:05 AM to tour the south coastline and end up in Charlottetown for the harness races. Stopped at the Kings Castle Provincial Park. It was a theme type park with life size figures scattered around the park.  Represented were the three pigs and the wolf, Snow White, Cinderella’s pumpkin carriage, Wizard of Oz characters, just to mention a few.  It looked like a real neat park to take children for a day trip – a full day.  And it is open to the public at no charge.  Did not have camping. 

During the drive came on an auction.  We stopped and looked.  It appears the man was a woodworker.  There were a lot of shop tools and a good collection of wooden molding planes.  I would have liked to have them but we didn’t stay for the auction.  Probably saved a lot of money.   See photos.

Stopped at the Rossignol Winery.  Believe this is the only winery on PEI.  The grape wines were all dry and the semi-sweet wines were all fruit.  It cost $1.00 per taste so we didn’t taste any and the wine was fairly expensive so we didn’t buy any either.   

Stopped at the Cape Bear Lighthouse. 

Stopped at the Northumberland Provincial Park.  I picked up a closing schedule for the parks that had campgrounds.  Found out there is not a charge to enter or use the PEI provincial parks except for camping.  Over 60 gets a 10% discount.

The rest of the day is from memory. I discovered during the races that the tape had broken.   We arrived in Charlottetown about 4:30 PM.  The coastline tour was 148 miles.  We drove by the racetrack to make sure the races were still on – they were.  Drove out to Victoria Park (a city park), parked and had a nap.  About 6:15 PM we went and had dinner at Wendy’s.  Got to the races about 15 minutes before they started at 7:30 PM.  Free admission.  The races were ran every 15 minutes – these are harness races.  I kept track of our bets on the recorder but at the 6th race I needed to replay an entry and found that the tape was not turning.  Didn’t know when it stopped working.  Anyway we stayed for 8 of the 12 races. 

The drive back to camp was 41 miles and took 48 minutes.

09-12-04SunDay 86 - We stayed in camp all day.  The tide was out low enough at 11:30 AM for me to dig clams.  I got quite a few – should be enough for 2 good messes. 

At about 1:30 PM we went for a walk on the beach and out to the point. The tide was all the way out by then. We went to see the seals but they were across the cove on another island. We could just see them but could hear them real well. We had been told they were on this side of the cove a couple of days ago. 

Cape Bear Lighthouse.
Coastline from the Cape Bear Lighthouse.

The clams need to set in water for 24 hours so that they will have enough time to spit out the sand – then we will cook and eat them.  Have been told the way to cook them is to put them in a little bit of water and steam them open.  Should take 5 to 10 minutes.  Then we can eat them as is or fry them. 

Had the mackerel filet for dinner tonight.  These are the fish I caught on the fishing tour on the 7th.  Rolled them in foil and baked in the oven.

09-13-04MonDay 87 - No tape recorder for the day.  We started to depart camp at 9:05 AM but our neighbor came over and wanted to talk so we didn’t get out until 9:25 AM.  Drove the east coastline and went up into the Bays & Dunes area.  Took the coastline road to Primrose then returned to camp. 

During the day we saw several lighthouses.  Stopped in Montague and purchased a new tape for the recorder.  Also in a grocery store in Montague we purchased sandwiches and drove out to a cliff overlooking the bay, and had lunch.   

On the trip back to camp went back through Montague.  Stopped at the tourist center and researched on how to prepare clams.  Stopped at the grocery store and purchases some cornstarch and peanut oil.  When we got back to camp tried to steam the clams.  They didn’t look right before or after we cooked them so think the water I had them in got to hot.  Will dispose of them tomorrow and get some more.  Following advice I received today will put them in the refrigerator, in salt water, for 24 hours, before attempting to cook them.  Use the ocean salt water.  See photos.

We were able to repair the broken tape so that I can transcribe it.  Had 4 days on it.  The drive today was 155 miles.   

Our neighbor came over and we visited about one hour.  They are full-timers. 

09-14-04TueDay 88  -  Stayed in camp today.  Went clam digging.  Got about 24 and put them in the refrigerator.  Will see how they look tomorrow.  Drove the jeep 348 miles this trip .  

09-15-04WedDay 89Out at:  10:25 AMTrip meter:  34 

Going to St Peters in the “Bay & Dunes” area.  Left the campground and went north to the 324 and took to 4 north then to the 313 north to St Peters.   

Stopped at St Peters Community Campground, St Peters, PEI – site #57 – grassy but on a slope – had to level side to side and raise the rear – Have water, electric, and sewer.,  Stayed 3 nights.  Has a huge public areas with trees – is a city park with recreational activities – miniature golf course – 2 swimming pools –have satellite – got setup at 12:30 PM.  We look out on a rolling grassy field with about 20 good size trees in the community area with hills and wooded area in the background.  The bay is just a few 100 yards away but is separated from the campground with a stand of trees.  The bay is full of mussel socks.

A note about the campgrounds.  Several are already closed.  The one we just left will be closing on the 20th.  The one we are in now will be closing the 25th.  Out of the 13 Provincial Parks that have camping only 2 will be open past the 25th and they will both close on October 16th. 

Panmure Island Lighthouse.
 A great place for lunch.  This was on the 13th.

Departed camp at 1:20 PM to tour the area to the west of us.  Took the 2 west out of camp and followed the coastline around to Tracadie Cross then returned to camp on the 2 east. 

We have seen a lot of trees along side the road that appeared to be apple trees.  We have been seeing them all during our touring of PEI.  We finally stopped and looked at some.  They are perfectly formed apples that range from less than one inch to just over two inches in diameter and are starting to turn red.  We believe they are wild apple trees – possibly wild apples or crab apples.  Sue says the number of the trees here just “boggles her mind”.   

During the tour we stopped at three beaches.  All three of these beaches are only assessable via dirt roads.  All were separated from the parking areas by a sand dune. 

  • The first was at Lakeside – I failed to get the name of the road that went to it.  The beach was at least 2 miles long.  You could put 5,000 people on this beach and it would look empty.  The beach was extremely clean – the parking area will only hold about 75 cars.  There is a wooden walkway across the sand dune.
  • The second was outside French Village accessible via Savage Harbour Road.  We had to walk over the sand dune to get to the beach.  This beach was not as clean as the first one but appears to be longer.  There were small rolls of kelp that had washed up and not removed.  There is only enough parking for about 10 cars.
  • The third one was on McDonald Road.  We had to walk over a sand dune that was about 300 feet wide.  This beach is longer than the other two.  It is not very clean – there is a lot of kelp.  We saw enough mussels attached to the kelp to have a good side cookout.  This beach is just a continuation of the other two.  To the east of this one is a point sticking out with a house on it that we noticed to the west of the second beach – it is Pt Deroche.  There was enough room at this beach to park about 150 cars.
  • I looked at the map and it appears this portion of the coastline is one long beach of about 8 miles. 

Arrived back in camp at 5:05 PM.  The drive today was 85 miles.   

We cooked the clams – fried half and steamed half.  Sue ate some of the fried one but none of the steamed ones.  I thought both kinds were good but liked the fried best.  There were only 22 of them – not enough for a meal.  Frying them really made a mess of the stove.  Sue had to take it apart to clean it.  While the top was off I repaired the igniter on one of the burners – I did not know she was having trouble with it until now.  

Went into St Peters at 8 PM for dinner but the town was closed up.  Drove out to Morell – about 5 miles away – and got a pizza to go.   

09-16-04ThurDay 90 - Departed camp at 11:50 AM.  When we toured “Hills & Harbours” out of the last campground we made it to Primrose in “Bays & Dunes”.  Therefore, today we will take the 312 south back to Primrose to start our tour.  For today’s tour we will follow the southeastern coastline to Rollo Bay West then take the 308 north to Naufrage on the northwestern coastline and follow it back to camp.  The leaves are just starting to turn.  See photos.

Saw a lighthouse about 1 mile west of Annandale.  There is not a name on the lighthouse and it is not indicated on the map.  Will call it the Annandale Lighthouse. 

Stopped at the Sallys Provincial Park.  Got out and walked around.  It is a day use park only and has a real nice beach with a wonderful view of the ocean.  

We have seen a lot of harbors and wharves during our touring.  The majority of them have been in disrepair.  The best maintained wharves have been in the “Anne’s Land” area.  I believe the reason for the condition of the wharves is the decline of fishing in PEI.  At one time it was a major industry but had declined during the past decade.  Some of these wharves are fairly large with very few boats in dock.  However, we have seen a lot of boats parked in people’s yards.  The main fishing appears to be lobster and the season in PEI is May, June, and July.  Saw lobster traps filling the storage sheds at the wharves and numerous stacks around houses.   

Naufrage is located at Shipwreck Point, so named for the large number of ships that have wrecked there.  The wharf is in really good condition with a lot of good looking clean boats in dock.  It appears to be a very active wharf.  The Naufrage Harbor Authority works out of this harbor.  We saw several boats leaving as we passed by and could see some out in the ocean that had just left recently.  There is a lighthouse here. 

A couple of miles from the harbor there was a road that went out to the ocean and followed the cliffs back toward the harbor.  It was a 4-wheel drive road.  We took it and had a panoramic view of the ocean.  We counted 15 boats that had left the harbor.  The time was about 3:30 PM.  We believe the reason is because cod fishing was opened for the west coast yesterday and for this side today.  These are probably cod boats heading out.  Found some firewood on the side of the road at an abandoned campfire so I stopped and picked some up.  

When we got back to St Peter there were two boats in the bay collecting mussel. 

Arrived back in camp at 4:15 PM.  The trip today was 103 miles.  Started a fire with the wood I picked up and cooked steak for dinner.  The wind was calm all night so we did not have an interruption in the satellite signal. 

09-17-04FriDay 91 - Departed camp at 9:05 AM.  Today will complete the “Bays & Dunes” area.  Will go back to the southeast side via the 2 south to Rollo Bay West, then start touring the coastline.  Will go around the point then complete the tour of the northwest side and return to camp.  See photos.

Stopped at the Red Point Provincial Park.  It was still open and had camping.  Most of the sites had an ocean view.  Had a long beach.  This would be a nice place to spend a week.

 Stopped at the Basin Head Fisheries Museum.  In the museum we watched three videos – one about oysters, one about mussels, and the other about scallops.  It had interesting exhibits about the history of fishing on PEI.  There was a beach that was 13 miles long and had sand called “Singing Sand” because it squeaks when walked on.  A high silicate content in the sand causes the squeaking.  We walked on the beach but did not hear any squeaking.  

We had a long talk with one of the docents.  She said that Cape Breton, a part of Nova Scotia, is 14 miles across from the museum.  In the winter time the entire 14 miles freezes.  Last year coyotes came across the ice.  That is the first time coyotes have been in PEI.  

Stopped at the Elmira Railway Station, a railroad museum.  The Island government passed the Railroad Act in 1871.  In the fall of 1872 railroad scandals had toppled the government and the little colony faced financial ruin.  By July 1873 the crushing railroad debt, which was 3.8 million, had driven the reluctant colony into confederation with Canada.  The terms of the union turned the Prince Edwards Island and its debt over to the federal government. 

The railroad was not opened until 1875.  The line just wandered around the island and expanded until the last station was opened at Elmira in 1912.  There was a total of 121 station on 196.5 miles of tract.  Elmira was the end of track on the eastern end and Tignish on the western side.  

There were 6 spurs running off the main east/west line. The line was originally constructed as a narrow gauge track but in 1900 they started putting in a third rail to create a standard gauge track. That allowed both gauges to be used until the conversation was completed in late 1920. The railroad originally started with 7 narrow gauge engines but I did not find anything that told how many standard gauge engines they had.

Annandale Lighthouse/
Doing one of my favorite things.  A nice fire, a comfortable chair, a good book, and plenty of quite.
Beach at Red Point Provincial Park.

The railroad operated until 1970. The Elmira station was transferred to the Prince Edward Island Heritage Foundation in 1971 for development as a railroad museum. There were 3 sets of the original tracks located in front of the terminal. That is probably all that were ever installed. A building had been constructed next to the original depot and houses an elaborate HO series train system mounted on a mockup of PEI.  

There is a Confederation Trail for walking and bicycles that wanders the length of the Island.  I have not mentioned it before but we have encountered it a number of times.  Several of the campgrounds we have stopped at have been located on the trail – the one we are at now is.  The eastern part starts at Elmira with the western end at Judas Point – about 1 mile past Tignish.  The trail is following the old east/west railroad bed.  

Stopped at East Point Lighthouse.  The lighthouse was constructed in 1867 at the point where the Gulf of St Lawrence and Northumberland Strait meet.   

Stopped at Campbells Cove Provincial Park.  The campground was closed to campers but we drove around it.  There are about 40 sites with no services and 8 with services.  There is a beach. 

We saw a blueberry field with stack and stacks of blueberries in plastic containers.  The plants were about 6 to 8 inches tall and full of berries.  They look just like weeds from the road.  There was no one in the field working so don’t know how they were gathered.  There was a sign that said it was a “commercial wild blueberry” field.  That seems to be an oxymoron.  

Stopped at “The St Margarets Lobster Supper Co-op” and had a lobster dinner.  It is part of the St Margaret of Scotland Roman Catholic Church.  We had the lobster dinner that included a 1-lb lobster, cup of seafood chowder, potato salad, cold slaw, pasta salad, carrots, biscuit, roll, tea, and a big slice of pie.  Sue had coconut and I had lemon.  Since the church operates this I guess we were blessed but the lobster didn‘t make out so well. 

Stopped at Naufrage Harbor – remember I had mentioned it yesterday.  As we were passing it on the way back to camp we noticed several boats coming in so we stopped and watched.  They were unloading mackerel.  I asked one on the men on the dock how they catch them and was informed it was by hand.  There are reels about 18” in diameter with a line with 40 to 50 hooks on it.  There were 2 reels on each boat.  Each fish had to be removed from the line one at a time.  Some of these boats were unloading as many as 6 tubs of fish and it looked like there could have been 400 to 500 fish per tub.  They caught a lot more fish than the mackerel boats I went out on did.  Got home at 6:45 PM.  The trip today was 110 miles. 

A note about the satellite signal.  We don’t get all of the channels.  Get about half the HBO channels, none of SHO, and only about half the other channels.  It has gotten worse the further east we go.  Suspect it will get better as we start back west tomorrow.  Drove the jeep 326 miles this trip . 

09-18-04SatDay 92Out at:  10:55 AMTrip meter:  88

It rained all night.  This rain is the results of hurricane Ivan that has done extensive damage to the gulf coast states in the US and has moved inland to Tennessee.  It let up while we were breaking camp but started again as we were leaving.   

Heading for Cap-Egmont in the “Ship to Shore” area.  Took the 2 west to Charlottetown.  Stopped in Charlottetown for groceries.  You have not experienced the thrill of driving until you have driven one of these rigs, with a car in tow, around a crowded parking lot.  Took the 2 by-pass around Charlottetown then continued on the 2 west to the 124 south.  Took the 124 south about 1 mile to Wellington then the 177 south to the 11 west to the campground.  

Stopped at the Moonlight Campground, Cap-Egmont, PEI  – Have water, electric, and sewer.  Stayed 5 nights.  Have 15-amp service – level grassy site.  The beach is about ¼ mile south.  The water is not potable at the present time.  The campground has its own water source and it was contaminated 2 weeks ago by the tail end of hurricane Francis.  The host thinks it will be certified Monday.  It is OK for washing dishes and showering but not for drinking – it has a strong chlorine taste.  Got parked at 3:10 PM but did not unhook or setup, still raining – just put the jacks down.   

Still raining at 4:15 PM so I went out in it and unhooked the car and plugged in the electricity.  We have sufficient water in the fresh water tank for a couple of days so will hook up the water and sewer later. 

When we checked in the host told me about a bluegrass jam in the area at 7:00 PM tonight.  At 5:00 PM we departed camp, in the rain, and went to locate it.  It is being held at the Cajun Jacques Restaurant.  Sue has had a brochure for this place all week and has been wanting to eat there.   

We drove out to the Union Corner Provincial Park.  It is a day use park only and is located with a nice view of the ocean.  It was under water when we drove through.  Returned to the restaurant and had dinner then went to the show.  The show lasted 3 hours.  There were 2 different bands – the first played sets 1 and 3.  They were real good.  The band that played set 2 needed some help.  Never-the-less we enjoyed the show.  I won a bluegrass cap as a door prize.  Our campground host was there.  He had a few and by the end of the night was jigging by himself.  He was the only one dancing.  

09-19-04SunDay 93 - It rained all night and off and on during the day.  We decided to stay in and rest.  The host came over and brought us a gallon of drinking water.  He also had a small bottle of moonshine and wanted to share it with me.  I thanked him and declined.  We had a nice visit.  He said there were clams on the beach.  They are not the small kind I gathered at the other campground.  I could keep any of those that were at least 2 inches wide.  He referred to them as “piss clams” because of the water they shoot up through the sand.  The minimum size for these is 4 inches.  He said you gathered them with a rake but he had to leave before we could discuss it further.   

I took a walk on the beach – Sue stayed in because there was a mist falling. 

09-20-04MonDay 94 - I connected the water and sewer this morning.  At 8:30 AM the sun is shining, it is 47 degrees, and there is a bit of wind.  Departed camp at 9:25 AM – going to tour the “Sunset Sunsets & Seascapes” area today.  Went back out the way we came Saturday and took the 2 north to the 12 north to start our touring.  It was 26 miles from camp to the 12 north – a nice drive through the heartland.   See photos

Stopped at Foxley Bay and watched oyster fishermen.  Counted 14 boats in the bay.  They are small boats about 20 feet long, usually aluminum, with outboard motors.  The wind was blowing about 30 to 40 mph and the fishermen were standing in the boats gathering the oysters just like we saw in the oyster video several days ago.  They gather the oysters with a tool that looks like two racks bolted together like a large hedge clipper.  The rack end is lowered into the water and then closed like hedge clippers to gather the oysters.  The product gathered is put in the boat and separated.  Everything that is not a “keeper” is thrown back.  It was so windy I don’t see how they were able to stand up in the boats.  

We drove down a muddy road that was 1.3 miles one way.  The map indicated it went to the beach but we ended up at a locked gate.  Four-wheel drive all the way through a lot of mud puddles.  Will have to wash the jeep.  Saw one red tree during the drive. 

Stopped at a drive-in theatre and drove around in it.  It originally had speakers but they have been removed and the viewers have to tune their radios to 550 to get the sound.   

Stopped at the Mill River Provincial Park.  Drove through the park – it was still open – we saw 2 rigs.  There are 72 sites with 36 being on an open grassy area – huge area allotted to each site.  The other 36 have been cut out in a wooded area and each one is a large secluded site.  Looked like full services at all sites.  It is located on the tail end of the Cascumpec Bay. 

Stopped at a navigational aid in Northport on Bury Head – Bury Head is a peninsula in the Cascumpec Bay just outside of Alberton.  It looked like a lighthouse and was probably one before being converted to a navigational aid station.  Saw a vineyard that had recently been planted on the peninsula – looked like a couple of acres. 

Stopped at the Alberton Museum.  It contained the history of Alberton but also had a lot of interesting artifices.  The museum manger gave us a tour and entertained us with interesting stories.  The museum is located in the old courthouse that was built in 1880.  It is one of the few remaining building that was built prior the last big fire in 1927.  That was the third major fire in the city’s history and just about completed the destruction of all of the earlier structures.  It was just fortunate the courthouse was built away from the main part of town. 

There are suppose to be murals painted on the sides of buildings around town so we will drive around and look.  Found them but they are not murals – they are huge paintings that have been secured to the side of the buildings.  The paintings reflect the type of business that was originally in the building i.e. the blacksmith shop, the pharmacy, etc.  The lady at the museum said they would be doing more, as money was available.  It cost about $1,500 per painting. 

Harvesting oyster's in Foxley Bay.
North Cape shoreline.  Surf was up.

Stopped at the Jacques Cartier Provincial Park.  It was open and had camping.  It looked like there were 75 sites – only one was occupied.  There were several campsites located right on the oceanfront - the water would be 5 feet from those sites when the tide was in.  It is windy and high waves were coming in.   

We drove out to the wharf at Judes Point.  We have seen a lot of wharf’s on PEI but this is the first one we have seen that you have to drive around about 4 miles to get to the other side.  It seems the wharf is setting at the mouth of a cove that ½ mile inland.  At the end of the cove is another harbor.  The boats in that harbor have to use the channel the wharf is setting on.  Therefore, to get from one side of the wharf you have to drive about 4 miles around to get there. 

Drove out to North Cape.  There is a wind generator farm there.  The brochures we had on it said there were 8 of them but we counted 17 – apparently some have been added.  When we got to the end of the point we saw 5 smaller generators.  Two of those were small versions of the vertical-axis generator we had seen on the Gaspe Peninsular.  Neither one was working.   

Located on the very tip overlooking the ocean is the Wind and Reef Restaurant with a tourist center and gift shop.  There was a dirt road that went along the cliff’s edge.  We took it.  It wiggled along the contour of the cliff.  At times the road was no more than 5 feet from the edge and very seldom got more than 20 feet away.  There were several areas where a slot had been made down to the water – looks like boat ramps.  There were areas where I could pull the jeep right up to the edge, facing out, and watch the ocean.  There were no barriers along the drive so the jeep could have gone over the side if I had gotten careless.  The road was 3 miles round trip.  

The road also went out to the generators.  We speculate the road was not for our use but was for use in servicing the generators.  We stopped right underneath one and with the engine off and windows down could not hear the blades going around.   

Ran out of time to finish our planned route today.  When we got to the 145 east we headed for camp.  The trip today was about 180 miles.  Got back in camp at 6:20 PM. 

09-21-04TueDay 95Departed camp at 11:35 AM.  We are going to tour the Ship to Shore area west of the campground and work our way back to the point where we left off yesterday.  Took the 11 west and went down to the Cap-Egmont wharf.  It is one of the nicer wharves we have seen but there was something peculiar about this one.  There was not a boat in sight but there were 15 pickups parked at the wharf.  We had heard the cod season had been moved back a week and would open today so speculate they are all out fishing for cod. Drove out to the Cap-Egmont Lighthouse  See photos.

Completed the west shore of this area and when we intersected the 2 we continued west into Sunsets & Seascapes to continue yesterdays tour.  In route we saw something that indicated there was a racetrack in O’Leary so we went there.  It’s great not having to travel on a schedule.

In O’Leary we stopped at the tourist center for directions to the track.  The Potato Museum is located in the same building as the center but we could not think of anything we wanted to know about the potato that was worth an admission fee.  

Drove out to the racetrack – it is harness racing and is called the Charles F Willis Memorial Raceway.  Talked to one of the employees and found out their racing season is over but that there will be racing in Summerside at 7:00 PM this Wednesday.  Since we have planned to go to Summerside tomorrow morning we will just change it to tomorrow afternoon and go to the races.  

Stopped at Howards Cove.  There is a wharf there that is protected by a high cliff.  On top of the cliff is a working lighthouse that resembles the top 15 feet of a lighthouse.  Since it is setting on the cliff it did not need to be as tall as a standards lighthouse.  

Stopped at Cedar Dunes Provincial Park – it has camping but was closed so we couldn’t get in to tour the sites.  It sets on the ocean. 

Stopped at the West Point Lighthouse.  It is the tallest lighthouse in PEI.  It is built at sea level and has to have the additional height for visibility.  It is also the only working lighthouse in Canada that is a restaurant and inn.  The lighthouse is also a museum.  We went into the museum, read about the construction, the lighthouse keepers, and the renovation.  Went up to the top – a total of 70 steps.  The stairs are original.  It was constructed in 1875 and the walls are 44 inches thick from the foundation to the ceiling of the first floor.  It was isolated from the rest of PEI and was supplied by ship twice a year.  Therefore, the lighthouse had substantial living quarters attached with a guestroom for visiting captains that happened to put in to shore.   

The light was automated in 1963 and the residence portion was removed.  The renovation mentioned earlier was the reconstruction of the residence that was converted into the restaurant, rooms to let, and a gift shop.  Two rooms in the lighthouse were also converted to rooms to let.   

Every little village seems to have a church.  We have seen more churches than barns.  

Drove through Alaska, a little village of about 20 houses.  

Returned to camp at 6:05 PM.  Today’s trip was about 145 miles.  The coach was hot inside when we got back.  The sun was out and Sue had left a crock-pot of beans cooking.  The place smelled like beans – a good smell.

West Point Lighthouse.
09-22-04WedDay 96  - Departed camp at 9:40 AM – its sunny and 50 degrees.   Took the 2 north to the 12 north to start our tour of the north shore of the Ship to Shore area.   See photos.

In route to our tour starting point we came across a sign just outside of Wellington on the 2 north for a “Demo Woodlot” – didn’t know what it was so we took a little detour to find out.  A Demo Woodlot is an area that has large sections of different types of trees planted.  The majority of the sections of trees had a sign that indicated when it was planted and when thinned.  The majority was planted in 1958 and thinned in 1980 and 1981.  However, we did see a couple of sections that were planted in later years and one section that has been clear cut and the trees appeared to be about 5 to 7 years old.  The entire area covered about 1 section of land. 

During our drive through we came upon a crew cutting trees.  I stopped and talked to the loggers.  The Woodlot is a government program – I failed to determine if it was a federal or provincial program.  All of the trees had already been cut down and they were trimming them and cutting them up into logs for hauling.  The area that had been clear cut was about 150 feet by 600 feet.  The reason was because that section had become diseased and they were cut to salvage the lumber before the trees started to rot.  At this point in time it had not been decided if the area would be replanted or allowed to go back to nature.   

I asked the loggers about cutting firewood.  I wanted to know if an individual could get a permit to go onto government land and harvest trees for firewood.  The answer is NO.  Firewood can only be harvested on private land or on government land if leased for that purpose.  For practical purposes an individual can only get firewood by purchasing it.  I asked about the price of firewood.  On PEI it is costing about $125.00 per cord and about $160.00 on Nova Scotia.  We had noticed a lot of homes with logs stacked in the yards and being cut for firewood.  We have made the assumption that it is probably cheaper for the homeowner to buy the logs and process them into firewood as vs purchasing it precut by the cord.   

Came upon another Demo Woodlot called “Foxley River Woodlot”.  Didn’t notice a name on the first one we toured.  This lot has not been very well maintained.  A lot of it had been clear-cut.  We saw thousands of logs stacked around the lot.  We watched an operator use a machine that was hauling logs out of the woods and stacking them.  It was quite an impressive machine.   

Stopped at a section of Conway Narrows.  There was a truck backed out in the water with a motor boat pulled up behind it with 2 men on board.  We assume they were loading oysters.   

There is currently a nation wide strike of approximately 100,000 federal employees in Canada.  On PEI there are 950 out on strike.   

Stopped at the Five Star Shellfish Inc.  They advertise oysters.  They are located at a wharf on Conway Narrows.  The closest town on a paved road is Freeland.  When we pulled into the parking lot we saw the truck that had been parked out in the water.  Two young men, in their early to mid twenties, came out and met us - said they had seen us taking their picture.  I explained I was trying to learn about oysters and they invited us in.  The company buys oysters, cleans them, and distributes them through a broker.  We were mistaken about them gathering oysters earlier.  What they were doing was putting them out.  The area where we saw them is their lease.  When they purchase more oysters than they need for current demand then they are stored on the lease.  When demand exceeds supply then they go to the lease and gather them.   

I asked about whom could gather oysters.  In order to gather in public waters you are required to have a license.  Anyone can gather on a lease or private property provided they have the lessee’s or owner’s permission.  There is no limit on the number that can be gathered.   

They offered to let us try some.  I had three but Sue would not eat any.  They were the best oysters I have every eaten.  The meat was full, tender, clean, and perfectly seasoned with the salt water.  They gave us 25 to take with us.  The oysters can live for a month in the refrigerator out of water – but ours won’t be around for a month. 

Found out why you don’t eat oysters in months that doesn’t have an “R” in it - that being the months of May, June, July, and August.  The oysters are spawning during those months and the meat in the shell just about disappears.  They make very poor eating and it also destroys oysters that are reproducing.   

Drove out to Lennox Island.  Wanted to eat lunch but the café was closed for the season.   

Saw a 6-section pivot system.  This is the third system we have seen on the island.  The other two were in potato fields around the Harrington area.  Hold it – about ½ mile down the road if another one.  It is only 2 sections, also in a potato field. 

I heard a discussion about pivot systems on the radio a couple of days ago.  Apparently there are two primary reasons when they were not popular on the Island.  First was the cost of about $40,000 to install one and second and most important was the lack of water to run them. 

Stopped at Green Park Provincial Park.  This is a huge park with an open area right in the middle, about 30 to 40 acres, with an outdoor stage.  The entire area is covered in a blanket of yellow wildflowers.  There were 15 cabins set right on the bay.  Saw 38 sites with 12 of them right on the bay – all for tents or small RV like travel trailers – no utilities.  The day use area had a large beach, clean and sandy – magnificent.  Further down the beach, away from the day use area, I picked up a float that had broken loose from one of the mussel socks.  Found another area with 30 sites with full utilities - they were out on the flat and were only 20 feet wide.  Extremely narrow and not very level.  For about half of them I don’t carry enough boards to level.  However, the park is so pretty that if we had the opportunity to stay here I would make it work.  This park has to cover well over a section of land.  

Also located in the park area is the “Green Park Shipbuilding Museum & Historical Yeo House”.  Saw a 20-minute video about PEI in the late 1800’s.  The Yeo family was shipbuilders who spanned about 60 years of shipbuilding.  They built several hundred large sailing ships plus assorted smaller vessels.  The museum has several exhibits that included an extensive collection of tools used to build a ship.  Toured the house that was built in 1865.  It was a magnificent 3-story house that was setting on a fairly low hill that overlooked the shipyard.  Mr. Yeo had an enclosed “widows walk” built on top of the house and he would go up there and use a telescope to check on the workers in the shipyard.  There was a huge ornamental lime tree in the front yard that was planted the year the house was built. 

We drove down to the site of the shipyard.  The following structures were still standing.  Don’t know if they were original but do know they were what were in use when the shipyard closed in the 1920’s.  A blacksmith shop and a small woodworking shop with fixtures.  Both have had a minimal amount of new reinforcing beams inside.  A steam box about 30 feet long outside the blacksmith shop.  Two saw pits. 

The center grounds and stage at Green Park Provincial Park.

There is also a one-hole outhouse that is about to fall down.  They have not bothered to reinforce it.  The hand dug well is still there, with water in it, but in poor condition.  Still some of the structure used to form the hulls.  No indication as to whether the actual construction was done in the open or under cover.  From the looks of the timber used in the buildings I would speculate they were the original ones constructed when the shipyard was opened in 1865.    

We have seen a lot of apple trees scattered around the Island that appear to be growing wild.  We talked to a lady in one of the museums about that.  She was of the opinion that these are the trees or at least products of trees of farms that were there in the 1700’s, 1800’s, and early 1900’s.  When the farms were originally established they all had orchards.  As the farms have disappeared she seemed to think the apple trees have survived and that is what we are seeing – the site of a farm that was.  

Passed another racetrack at Tyne Valley called Valley Downs.  It was closed.  This is the third small racetrack outside an extremely small town that we have seen.  Are there more?  There are also the two large tracks with pari-mutuel betting in Charlottetown and Summerside.  These people really take their harness racing seriously.   

Stopped at Belmont Provincials Park.  It is a day use only located out on a point surrounded on three sides by the ocean.  Had a really nice beach. 

Drove into Summerside.  Rinsed off the jeep to get the mud off from our trips down the muddy roads.  Went to the racetrack and watched all 12 races.  It rained during most of the races.  Since they run every 15 minutes it was over about 10:10 PM.  A note about the betting.  Noticed this at the Charlottetown track also.  Quite frequently when a horse wins the place bet pays more than the win bet.  On one of the races tonight one of the races paid 12.80 – 4.80 – 14.00.  Notice the show bet paid more than the win bet.   

Got back in camp about 10:30 PM.  Drove back in the rain.  The drive today was about 160 miles.  Drove the jeep 508 miles this stop .

09-23-04ThurDay 97Out at:  10:10 AM  – Trip meter:  36 

Will take the 11 east and follow the coastline over to the 1A south then to the campground about 2 miles from the Confederation Bridge at Borden-Carleton.   

Stopped at Sun-n-Shade Campground, Borden-Carleton, PEI – Have water, electric, and sewer'  Atayed 3 nights.  Level and grassy – narrow but long enough for 3 rigs – magnificent view of the Trans-Canada Highway #1.  Have satellite.      

Nearly didn’t get a spot here – there were only 4 that were not reserved.  A Good Sam chapter is coming in this weekend and also the PEI Bluegrass Assoc.  Was advised there will be a bluegrass jam in the recreation center tonight at 7:30 PM.

This campground has an indoor stage and provides free music 4 nights a week - Thrusday thru Sunday.  They take donations for a local childrens hospital.

Departed camp at 12:45 PM to go into Charlottetown to get our mail.  Will go in by way of the coastline and complete our tour of this part of the coastline.  We did part of it when we first visited Charlottetown several weeks ago.  The wind is blowing and it is 53 degrees.  

Didn’t get very far – there is a seafood store that sells cooked lobster just across the highway from the campground.  We stopped and bought 2 lobsters for dinner tonight and took them back to the coach.  Got back on the road at 1 PM. 

Our campground is on the 1A, about ½ mile from the intersection of the 10.  We took the 10 east.  Drove down to Bells Point and had an excellent view of the Confederation Bridge.  Richards Point had another good view of the bridge.  The tide is out and there are a lot of sandbars visible.  We have a beautiful view of the ocean.  At Crapand we picked up the 1A again.  Stopped at the lighthouse at Victoria.  Stopped at the Victoria Provincial Park – day use only - right on the ocean.  When we got to DeSable we saw the Blue Goose Restaurant so we know we got this far on the prior tour so we stayed on the 1A to Charlottetown.  

While on the 1A we stopped at the Strathgartney Provincial Park.  It is build on the side of a hill.  Saw about 75 sites but only 12 had services - water and electric only.  The 12 sites with services were level but the other sites were so unlevel I doubt you could level a trailer.  This is the only Provincial Park that we have seen that has been this hilly.  It was closed for the season.  Our drive today was about 85 miles. 

Had the lobster and salad for dinner.  Went to the bluegrass jam.  There were only 2 performers – a man that played the guitar and mandolin and a woman that played the standup bass (found out they were the campground owners).  They played for two hours and it was pretty good.  The only bad parts were when they would get someone from the audience to come up and sing.   

09-24-04FriDay 98 - Departed camp at 10:10 AM – going to complete our tour of the coastline in Anne’s Land then return to Charlottetown to check mail. 

I have mentioned churches before.  There are a lot of them and they all appear to be well maintained.  Many have really tall steeples that are visible for miles.


Our campsite at Sun-n-Shade Campground.  We are backed up to a potato field.  The machine in the background is the potato harvester.

Victoria Lighthouse in Victoria Provincial Parl.
Drove down Princetown Road out to a point.  We stopped and I walked out on the shore and saw thousands of oysters.  The tide was out and these were growing on the rocks.  Saw quite a few large ones out in the water.  I could have gathered a good mess of them but believe it would be illegal for me to do so.

Saw another vineyard that looked like it may have been planted this year.  It appeared to be at least 5 acres.   

Stopped at Cabot Beach Provincial Park.  They have camping.  It is a huge park but is closed for the season; however, there was a fifth wheel trailer parked with people inside.  They had the electricity plugged in but did not see any water hooked up.  Looks like there are at least 150 sites here with about 25% in one area with water and electricity and the other 75% scattered all over the park with no services.  There is a large playground, recreational fields, and a beach.  It is located right next to the Malpeque Harbor.   

We drove into Malpeque.  This is suppose to be the oyster capitol of PEI but the only restaurant in the area was at the harbor and it was closed for the season.  We did not get to sample the famous oyster. 

Just heard on the radio that the Provincial Supreme Court of Nova Scotia just upheld the legality of same sex marriages.  It is the sixth providence to do so.  The federal and provincial governments will not contest the decision.   

Also heard that prior to April this year the public libraries in PEI did not charge for overdue books – and there were many.  The provincial government operates the libraries.  In April the libraries started charging for overdue books and the number has dropped by 60%.  Yea for the libraries.   

Drove into Charlottetown and got our mail.  The drive was about 145 miles today.  Got back to camp at 3:00 PM.   

We went to the bluegrass jam again tonight.  With all of the musicians in camp tonight we had quite a show.  At the height of the night there were 6 guitars, 1 steel guitar, 1 mandolin, 1 banjo, 1 standup bass, and one man with spoons.  Each one took turn singing.  Additional people were called from the audience and sang or played instruments.  They would just come and go and switch around and played each other’s instruments.  The steel guitar player also played the guitar and banjo.  It was quite a group and they played really well considering they did not practice together.  However, they all seemed to know each other and I am assuming they have played together at other gatherings.  I found the spoons to be very distracting.  They will be back tomorrow night.  We fell into something pretty good here.  Note that none of these instruments were electric.

09-25-04SatDay 99 - We have about 20 miles of coastline left to tour then we are going to the village at the Confederation Bridge tourist center (SO Sue can shop) so we just stayed in camp this morning.  Departed at 12:30 PM.  Took the 10 west.  At the 118 drove out to the shore.  The tide was out and there were a lot of sandbars visible.  I walked out on them.  Had an excellent view of the entire Confederation Bridge.  Could see where both ends were anchored.  Drove by the Chelton Beach Provincial Park.  It is a day use park but it was closed.  It is a good size park and is setting on the ocean – should have a nice beach.  6

Drove out to the lighthouse on Seacow Head Point.   

Went to the lighthouse on MacCallums Point.  The lighthouse is set several hundred yards out in the bay at the end of a rock jetty.  It would require a rock climber to get to the lighthouse using the jetty to get there.  There is a cliff overlooking the lighthouse.  I found a way to get down and climbed down to the water.  There were a lot of oysters growing there. 

On the way out to the point we had seen two men out in a cove gathering something.  On the way back from the point we stopped and I walked out and talked to them.  They were at least ¼ mile out.  The first one was digging for piss clams.  The ones he was getting were smaller than the ones I had gathered.  He is getting them out of a clay mud and I got mine out of a sandbar.  Maybe that makes a difference in the size. 

The other man was out in the water, wearing rubber boots, and using a rack.  He was gathering quahogs - they are a shellfish that looks like a clam but are a little thicker and blue in color.  They are located in 3 to 4 inches of water when the tide is out.  They are gathered like clams but are eaten raw.  The gentleman opened 2 and let me eat them.  They were wonderful.  Can’t get fresher foods than that.  I didn't have my rubber boots on.

That completed our tour of the PEI coastline.  It is 2:30 PM and we are headed back in.  Just saw a guy on the highway on in-line skates, with helmet and kneepads, pushing himself along with sky poles.  Guess he is training for the ski season.  Took the 10 east back to the 1A and the bridge.  Sue went shopping and I checked email and did some research on the internet.  Sue bought some souvenirs and a CD.   

Seacow Head Lighthouse.
That completed our tour of the PEI coastline.  It is 2:30 PM and we are headed back in.  Just saw a guy on the highway on in-line skates, with helmet and kneepads, pushing himself along with sky poles.  Guess he is training for the ski season.  Took the 10 east back to the 1A and the bridge.  Sue went shopping and I checked email and did some research on the internet.  Sue bought some souvenirs and a CD.   

Returned to camp – went to the office and bought ice cream cones and a CD by two of the singers at last nights jam (one of them being the campground owner) – took a short walk on the Confederation Trail.  It passes right by the rear of the camp.   

At 7:15 PM I went to the jam – Sue decided not to go.  It had already started when I got there – only a one-minute walk.  There were between 80 and 90 chairs and all but 5 were taken when I arrived.  The music was great.  After the 8:30 PM break a group put on a comedy skit.  It was the funniest thing I have seen in years.  The audience laughed until tears ran.  There were four singers that were the match for many of the professional singers I have heard in recent years.  It was a great great show – and it was free.  It did not end until 10:40 PM.  Drove the jeep 279 miles this stop.

Note.  PEI is 171 miles long and about 40 miles wide at its greatest depth.  We drove the entire perimeter and took photos of all of the lighthouses.  We drove the jeep a total of 1,819 miles during our tourning.

09-26-04 SunDay 100Out at:  10:10 AMTrip meter:  160 

Crossed back into New Brunswick.  Paid a toll to cross the bridge.  As we crossed the bridge the compass went nuts again so it must be some kind of interference on the bridge.  Probably something to do with navigational aids.  

Heading in the direction of Fredericton, NB.  Took the 16 west off the bridge and picked up the 2 west at Aulac.  Both highways are part of the Trans-Canada highway.  Going inland through New Brunswick we noticed a far greater number of trees have changed color than on PEI.  The trees along side the road looks like they have been splattered with multiple shades of reds, yellows, oranges, and burgundies.  

This highway is in excellent condition.  With the exception of about 5 miles of a few bumps and waves it is as good as any highway I have ever driven on.  

Stopped at Gagetown Camping, Upper Gagetown, NB – Have water, electric, and sewer.  Stayed 3 nights.  Had to level – ugly campground – 49 sites.  Have satellite and got setup at 2:45 PM.


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